What was that and why?
As I've gained a very interesting, positive and awesome experience of hitch-hiking in Europe (actually in countries that have an access to sea), I would like to share it with people who are a bit interested in travelling and adventures. I could say it was the best holiday in my life. I've gained useful life experience, unforgettable impressions, I became stronger, braver and I've got back my faith in human kind.
Why have I decided to do that? I was inspired
by ideas of Couchsurfing. For someone who doesn`t know: it's not only free host
place but it's also a culture, language exchange, interesting communication and
new friends =). After talking with
several couchsurfers I realized it's much more interesting and more fun than
travel vouchers. After reading various articles about hitch-hiking I was convinced that in Europe
it is fairly popular stuff, also safe and convenient. I did not want to take
off a lot of money on comfortable buses, so I decided to hitch-hike. Besides why not try something new in life? I must
confess that before my travel my life was like sad trash. Rare visits to Finland on a
bus full of people who are only interested in shopping, to grab something cheap
and Finnish fish were not very inspiring and did not seem like a real journey.
And for the long trips usually I did not have enough time or money. Tours in tropical
countries with the type of rest "all inclusive" did not draw at all.
I hope not only I sick of drunken tourists who go there to feel like a rich
white masters served by the local people and buying up tons of magnets made in
China.
With the way of travelling almost
everything was clear, but what is the point? I decided to formulate it this
way: if in the world where are no good people so I have nothing to do on this
planet. I've definitely tuned my mind to be sure by this travel what the world
is full of good people and all the thoughts set up exactly for that.
Preparation.
I'm failed with that. I took three weeks of vacation but it was to much for the beginner. So I've shorted the list of cities. I've made approximate list of cities and started to send requests to couchsurfers from different cities. I've quickly got invitations from Hamburg, Riga, Warsaw. In Warsaw lived a girl with who we walked together by vegetarian places in Petersburg (oh yeah, I'm vegan) and went to Night of museums. But it was early to relax cause I've started to send requests for 2 weeks before my vacation. I recommend to do it 3-4 weeks before. And the time was not right cause a lot of people were on vacations themselves. It was August!
I suspected it will be a real adventure.
So why not invent something adventurous and crazy? I read in a blog of one
traveller about his hitch-hike travel in Scandinavia how he spent a night in
Orthodox Church in Copenhagen.
So I realized it was something I should do. Because it's a real spirit of
adventure. Like in old (good?) times in the Middle Ages when the monks gave a
place to stay to wayfarers. I found that orthodox church. Father Sergiy had
answered me in less than one hour. I've written down the phone from web site.
But I didn't realize it was not mobile. So first city where I had no place to
sleep was Berlin. But I thought I will where in 2 weeks so someone
will respond to me.
I knew it takes a lot of time to go to Stockholm through Lapland so I took a ticket to ferry from
Helsinki. And hitch-hiking to Helsinki
would be problematic as well. Who wants to take a hitch-hiker, not knowing if he
has the necessary documents? Registering on site puputchiki.ru (travelmates) I
quickly found a couple (I thought it were husband and wife or boyfriend and his
girlfriend) which goes in same day in same direction I agreed to pay 800
roubles cause taxi could be more expensive.
On Friday.
Cunning plan was almost ready, the route
was approved and I started printing the maps. Maps I decided to do this way: on
the one side printscreen from Happy Cow and on the other the name of the
city for hitch-hiking. Later it turned out that it was pretty useless: it is
better to write the exact address from the site, because it can show the wrong
side of the street or another end. And a piece of paper with the name of the
town was not much useful. When the drivers saw the inscription a lot of them
passed by thinking something like "I'm not going there so it will be not
so useful to help by several kilometres." Well, I did not check what they
were thinking but I am pretty sure it was that way.
I told my mom what I went in tourist's group.
It was the only way to do that. Perhaps she would tearfully beg not to do that,
persuade me that I will be necessarily killed, robed, raped (underline the
right). I didn`t want to make her nervous. I would not say that I lied to her.
I just didn't tell the truth.
The first day. "A long ass fuckin' time ago, In a town called Kickapoo,...." - Tenacious D
With Kirill I've agreed to meet near metro station at 8.30. A car drove up and I saw that the driver's campanion is a guy too (Dima). It became a little scary, but I made my choice. I sat down and we went. "So you didn't found the fourth? " - I asked. "No" - said Kirill. The conversation in the beginning was not very jell and I thought: "Maybe they have a business like this: take out into the woods and kill?". But it would not be very profitable. Then I started paying attention to very different things: too clean car, the driver constantly asked to look for some other documents, arguing in whose bag they lied. We stopped at the gas station. Kirill dirtied up the car as Dima hastened to note: "Kirya, what have you done?". " Shhh, calm, calm down!" - replied the driver, clearly intending not to aggravate the matter before the scandal. Bagged in Duty free we moved to the roadside to make a break: coffe in a thermos, napkin - suspicion was clear. "Why do you go to Helsinki?" - Said Kirill. "I'm going to travel around the Baltic Sea by hitch-hiking" - I replied. "And are you not scared to do it alone?" - "No. People say it's safe and easy in Europe." "Where are you going, guys?" - "In the cruise on the Viking." "Why? To buy cheap alcohol?" - "Oh no, to dance." From this I concluded: my companions were as minimum metrosexuals and as a maximum gays. Of course, I treat gays normally. At that moment it started to seem ridiculous, that I almost thought they were maniacs. But it was the first example of how people are used to suspecting something bad from strangers and how it's silly to be afraid of strangers.
PS: if I screwed up in my conclusions about
my fellow travellers I’m really sorry :-)
At the railway station in Helsinki we said goodbye and I left. Despite
the fact that it was ninth or tenth time in this city I got lost searching
vegetarian cafes. I did not want to eat only see cafes and check them since I
ate too much of nuts from Duty free. About the food I just forgot for the whole
day (yes, they are high-calorie). Realizing that registration on Silja Serenade
ends in 20 minutes and if I'm late for it my trip will be totally f*cked I
started to run up to passings, poke a map and ask where we 're. Running with
all my stuffs (backpack, which at the beginning of the journey felt heavy and
bag), I felt not only stupid, but also as young Jables from the movie
"Tenacious D: Pick of Destiny."
On the ferry I've arrived five minutes before
the end of the registration and I was red as a lobster. "Never mind,"
- I thought, "I did it and it all will be easier in my trip." Oh, if
I knew what waits me ahead! The cabin was empty and I spent all evening in cafe
with wi-fi. I saw my neighbours just before bedtime. They were the girl from Finland and two from Austria. We talked a little bit and
went to bed. Not to say that I slept peacefully, as well as all the previous
week. Soon I was to hitchhike for the first time in my life.
Silja Serenade
Helsinki
The second day. People a strange when you're a stranger ....
From Stockholm invitation came from a certain Jonas. Vegetarian, Maori, more than 60 positive reviews and friends on the site ... . His behavior remains a mystery to me. Yes, he has fulfilled his promise, took me to organic food store, in cafe with veg options, showed wonderful place, inaccessible to ordinary tourists. It was a mountain in the center of the city, there was a great view on the most part of the historic center.
But his
behavior was so strange. From time to time he
became animated as if getting his own opposite holding me by the shoulder and said: "Well, Yana how are you? Are you
okay?". Do not think that he was flirting or molesting, it was as if a
friendly hug. But in my facial expression anyone would have guessed that it did
not bring me any joy and happiness. And how can one climb with hugs to person,
breaking his personal space, to someone you know a couple of hours, who
moreover is not your close friend or relative? I've counted the hours until our
separation.
As Jonas was my guide - couchsurfer in town,
I thought that sooner or later we will get to some palace or museum, but we did
some shopping in "second hand". Jonas bought sneakers, T-shirt. Then
we went back in one shop. While Yana was enjoying soy yogurt, Jonas went away for a bottle of wine. He thought I would
drink with him, but coming in a sober sanity, I refused. Then one friend of
Jonas wrote him and he asked me do I not mind if he meet Silvia too.
"Maybe she is not as insane as you" - I thought, and agreed to meet
with her. In cafe where we came was a guy. We went to the park , which is
popular among students and tourists. Silvia came. She proved a pleasant and
adequate girl. Another friend came. He was also pleased to see Jonas. Then out
of nowhere in our company was guy from France (perhaps he was invited by Silvia).
Then came the girl from Bulgaria
just to say hello and go back to her company. Then a girl from Brazil.
She immediately warned that hates carnival and asked not to talk about it. Then
the Frenchman went away, but another one came . Complained that spent the night
in the boat. In the hostel in a boat. Jonas drank off almost whole bottle. He
said that he liked me and that's not because he was blind drunk. I told him
that because of him we have not gone to exchange my money. Although I let him
know that I did not even have enough kronas just for a coffee, and ticket to
the subway costs more. He said he would buy me a ticket on the subway. I
offered to give him euros. Jonas refused to take money. He wanted to show me
his hospitality in the expectation that I will also be hospitable when he comes to Petersburg. "I see you the first and
last time in my life." - I thought. Night was falling. When I froze
totally I've convinced Jonas to go back home. Back at the apartment, I went to
look couchsurfers in Berlin.
Jonas intruded with useless advices how to formulate requests. He even tried to
print them and to seek some words on the internet. Being even more retarded of
alchool Jonas printed by one letter in a minute. It terribly pissed me off
because I wanted to send messages as soon as possible and go to bed. I wasn't
able to sleep. I slept probably two hours. All my thoughts were about what I
will do when a couple of good drivers lift me to the middle of Sweden and how
I'll die there.
In the morning more like a zombie Comrade
Maori overcoming difficulties of inebriety
took me to the road leading to the highway E4 waved his hand and walked away. One
of the best days of my vacation began = )
The third day. Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
I held up my hand sticking out my thumb. "How stupid I must look! - I thought - "No one stops." But in less than five minutes a small van stopped. Lower the window and the driver, 30 years old guy, asked where I wanted to go. "On the road E4" - I said. "I'm not going there but I can throw in a better place." - The driver said. I set down and we started talking. He went hitch-hiking a few years ago. Asked whether the drawing frightened me to travel alone. I said that in Russia I would have been much scaring but here as people say hitch-hiking is quite safe to do. He said I'm brave. And in the future I've heard it so many times :-). We arrived at the bus stop, pointed to the place to go. Shook hands goodbye and he wished me a good journey. The second driver was a man of about 60. A typical Swede. Neat, polite, friendly. We drove past Ikea.
Landed at
Media Markt. He wished me good luck. The third was the bearded man of about the
same age as the previous one. Just was sporty, slightly pumped up like a
metalhead in age. Athletic metalhead. Drove a few miles away. Also wished good
way. I was standing near the gas station when near me stopped a couple of
Kenyans. They saw me from station. Said that they can help a few kilometres. I
think they were father and son. And Dad was a very funny dude. "Where are
you from?" - "From Russia"
- " Yes, your president ia really nasty! Ahahahaha! You know we're
actually from Kenya, but I
bet you did not know nothing about Kenya! Ahahahaha!". If in Kenya folk
really has such cool mentality, as my driver had, I would like to go there.
The fifth driver was Finnish. Was also a nice man. In the cases went to a
Swedish town. Six did not know a word in English. I do not know anything about
cars, but it was really an expensive car. And it was cool to know that rich
people are not snobs (at least in Sweden) and help the travellers. The
mood was just on top. The weather was very lucky. To ride on the roads of Sweden in the
sun and enjoy the mountains, forests, fields under the blue sky, it's something
fabulous! Fortune did not turn her back on me for a moment throughout my
journey. And even if occasionally dripping rain this time I was sitting in
someone's car. Breaking the record and standing for nearly half an hour, I met
a seventh driver. First time it was a trucker. I spent with him for a long
time, I think about 5 hours. In the middle of our common way we stopped at the
gas station. Since I did not have money to buy coffee, I said that I would just
sit and wait. "Too late, I already paid for 2 lunches." - driver
smiled. I took vegetables mix. Although this time I was not hungry, later I realized
it was right moment to eat. We drove another 2.5 hours before our paths parted.
Since I bought enough souvenirs for couchsurfers I was happy to present him the
keychain with the legend "St.
Petersburg". I think he was also glad to get an
unexpected souvenir. Then stopped smiling guy who almost immediately after we met
asked me if I believed in God. The strange thing is that our views on this
issue were quite similar. But I will not speak about it here. Came the ninth
driver Sebastian. It is a pity that the idea to write their names came to me
the next day in Denmark.
I remember his name probably because he was the namesake of crab from one
cartoon ;-). He asked me if it was true, that cigarettes are very cheap in Russia.
"Yeah, pack costs 1 euro!" - "Do you think it's possible to send
post from Russia
with cigarettes? " - " Uh, well, there is all sorts of excise taxes,
to declare these things should ... " - "OK, good luck to you!".
As I was southward more drivers advised to go through Helsingborg but not
through Malmo
as I originally planned. The ninth car braked sharply. The driver was talking
on the phone and some documents fell on him from somewhere. But he did not even
seem to notice that. I sat up quickly, put the paper back on the shelf. After a
few minutes he had finished talking on the phone, greeted me, shook hands. I've
presented myself, who I am and there I'm going. The driver said that where're a
lot of idiots in the south and that his girlfriend once nearly happened some
trouble on the road and after this accident he bought some stuff. But as in
English they are called he did not know. He began to look for something on the
shelf and pulled out two plastic knuckledusters. He said that I must take one.
Showed a spot on his neck where to strike (by the way, on his neck, not mine,
ahaha). Offered money for the hostel in Helsingborg, so I could spend the night
today and tomorrow move to Copenhagen.
I took knuckleduster but refused to take the money. I was shocked by how the
person cares about the wellbeing of a stranger. If you are in shock too I can
just say that I had no chance to use knuckleduster all the way. I already did
not believe that I will ever use it. Now it's difficult to convey my feelings.
It was so cool to meet so many interesting, kind, funny, caring people, which
were fun and easy to talk to. Not to mention the fact that everyone has done
something good for me. As much as one could.
Tenth driver was Hans Bersson. Uncle was in
good mood and smoking a pipe. Maybe he was jolly because of it ;-). Drove to Helsingborg. Arranged for a tour, showed a government
building, a fortress, a terminal where I had to buy a ticket to the ferry to
Helsingor. Saying goodbye, for some reason I said, "Maybe I'll see you
next time!" - "Wait a minute, I'll write you my address!". Since
the ferry goes every 20 minutes I decided that I have to make a couple of
pictures here.
A few
minutes later the ticket to Denmark
was in my hands. And soon I was in Denmark by myself. A real downpour
started. I lost a little spadoinkle (an abstract word invented by one director
and screenwriter means something like courage and good mood.) One dude took me
from the terminal to the side of the road to Copenhagen. There was an indoor passage to
the house where I was hiding from the rain, running periodically to hitch-hike
on the road when I heard a start of motors going on the green light from the intersection. A
few minutes passed and the truck stopped. In the cab except for the driver
there were two hitch-hikers. They returned to Prague
after a month of hitch-hiking in Norway.
I hope you not have lost count and remember that it is the thirteenth driver on
my way ;-) Hitch-hikers were pretty cute guys. And driver I didn't like at all.
He was about 30, skin problem on his face, like emery shows on his face. Well,
I thought, with drivers I'm lucky all the day. I didn't want to judge by
appearance. GPS talked too familiar and obviously not in Danish. Driver was
from Macedonia
and spoke and understood a bit Russian. We came on the south of Copenhagen. Czechs
disembarked and went to look for a place in the park to put up a tent. The
driver said: "There is a second bed, if you want to stay. Tomorrow I 'll
take you to the center where you want.". You do not understand why I
accepted and believed him since you did not spend the whole day with a very cool
positive Swedes. I've lost vigilance a little and could not suspect anything.
But when the driver took off his trousers (not pants) and put his arms around
my waist vigilance came back to me with the speed of light. "What the
hell? It's time to get out of here" - flashed through my head. I asked,
"What are you doing? " - "No?" - "No!". I quickly
put on my shoes and began to gather my things. "Let me see your documents,
you're probably an immigrant. Now I'll call the police!" - Such a reserve
of impudence would be the envy of any bold. By the way, do not imagine horrible
pictures in your head :) It does not scare me and he did not try to stop me. He
just realized that it broke off. I left this parking behind and walked to the
center. Not to say that I was scared. I knew nothing wrong would happen with me
would not have happened anyway. Truckers are not profitable to risk his job:
getting involved in a conflict with the passengers. Who knows how it might end.
And in the car because the cargo worth thousands of euros. Well, it`s not like
it`s a car full of toothpicks, right? I
knew that I have to go to the center a few hours and I'll come to a closed
church and the parish itself is not known where. I decided to ask around
passers about hostels. I've asked a couple of people but the exact address and
directions no one knew. Then I saw a man and a woman about 60, walking with
their dog. I approached them and asked the same question. "Oh, it's really
far away from here. But if you want, you can sleep in our house." -
"Yes, I want!" - I said. "But we need to walk the dog." -
Warned Tove. "I'll walk with you." - I said it not believing my luck.
We walked the dog and came home. It was a two-storey house in a typical
residential area of Copenhagen.
Tove showed me the house, said I can sleep in the room of their son, who no
longer lives with them. The room was on the second floor. I said I could just
sleep on the couch, but host insisted that I must sleep on a normal bed. I took
a hot shower and it came in handy cause
I was soaked to the skin because of the rain. Of course, I could not
leave without a souvenir these people = ) . Again I was in a good mood, knowing
that I am really lucky. And I was happy about circumstances that led to such an
interesting acquaintance. "Do not have doubt about choosing!" - I
said to Homer Simpson, depicted on the poster above the bed on which the yellow
guy wondered: "Two beer or not two beer?". In the morning I didn't see
Dennis, as he had already left for work. We had breakfast with Tove. She made
me coffee and fried toast, which I gladly ate with cherry jam. I said I would
be happy to send them an invitation for a visa to Russia, we exchanged phone numbers,
addresses, e-mails. Then we again walked Sasha. Tove took me by car to the tube
(this is the subway, just above the ground) and bought me a ticket. We hugged
and I went to the center.
Later, when I told my story to friends, many
admitted that they would never let a stranger sleep in their home. Yes, I
suspected it. I remember in high school chemistry teacher told me that when
they were kids they could go to any house, knock on any apartment and ask for
water. And now it is no more. No one will open door to you, all intercoms, that
does not prevent from maniacs. It is very dangerous for children to walk alone.
So much maniacs, not like in the Soviet Union.
It is sad that in our time in Russia
for some reason people prefer to believe that the stranger is the very maniac,
whom they say in all the TV channels. But I believed in human kindness. Once
and for all.
In Copenhagen
it was not very interesting to walk. Again pouring rain. But I wanted to take
some pictures and hurry up in Hamburg
to Julia.
After
completing my travel duties, I came to the station, exuding wifi, sat down on
the floor. "So the E20 highway passes near the town of Koge. What? 108 crones ? No way !" After
five minutes, I stomped toward the road. For the first time I stopped a woman.
More precisely girl 25 years old. She carried me not to the highway, but the
road leading to the E20. I was glad that finally the womankind has shown itself
from brave side, albeit so far only in the face of this girl. My next driver
was a former police officer. He told me that he has three children, and
everyone knows his own language: one knew English, one knew Chinese and which
one knew third I forgot. Now he is engaged in construction and making furniture
out of wood. "Is it safe enough to hitch-hike here? " - "We have
very good order and virtually no crime." - I finally relaxed. Frankly it
was a little hard to get back on the road after yesterday. After the driver's
words I was completely reassured. And all around me again were pleasant and
kind people.
The third driver in Denmark was a woman
again. She was like a business-woman. Most of the women in the Nordic countries
well take care of themselves and it is difficult to guess whether they have
their own business or are some waitress. Very cute. After listening to a very
brief description of my journey, told me that I must feel free as a bird, as I
have the wings behind my back. I could not disagree with her. So it really was.
In less than half a minute, as after our parting stopped Nicholas. He said that
this name is very popular in Denmark.
Suddenly his neighbour called him. Nicholas told her about me, turned on the
speaker phone and we started chatting together. I told them about my journey,
we chatted and laughed. It was so cool! Even the neighbours of my drivers are
positive and cool people too! The fifth driver unfortunately I remember very
bad. He went to Corser and he soon dropped me off at a gas station, advising me
to find someone here and not to go down close to highway, because it's really
close to control point and I may have trouble with the police. But at the gas
station was very rotten, but traffic on the highway attracted me and I went
down there. A red Volkswagen van stopped. I saw there guy and girl. "Where
do you want? " - "In Western Denmark
to begin with. Where are you going? " - "We are going in Germany, in Berlin." - "Wow! And I actually
need to go to Hamburg!
" - "Climb up!". I opened the door to the van, climbed over a
box full of CDs, paintings, some antiques, and off we went. I began to talk
about myself and my journey. Siff and Tue listened me with interest and smiled.
And I thought to myself: "How long time I have not seen such live, burning
eyes, as these young guys had." I felt such a strong positive energy
emanating from my new traveling companions. It combines perfectly with the
islands, sunny landscapes of Denmark.
Tue asked if I was in a hurry. I told him that there is someone waiting for me
in Hamburg
"We need to pick up my brother and visit my father. I don't think you'll
go to Hamburg
faster if you will go without us." With great pleasure I agreed to stay.
We took Victor and went to their father.
The house was a typical bachelor place, as Tue
warned us in advance :) . The guys unloaded some things and we went into the
garden. There were apples, gooseberries, plums, currants and a trampoline. We
began to check the ripeness of the fruit and did find delicious, ripe berries
and fruits. I translated for them names of fruits in Russian. "I'll go to
find yabloko." - Tue said. Later, on the way to Germany, I asked Siff to teach me
some Danish words. The words "yes", "no", "thank
you" for some reason are not left in my memory, as opposed to the correct
pronunciation of the word Copenhagen
and the word "asshole" in Danish . " You have to say it as if
you feel sick. KEbenhavn. Hey guys, Yana wants
to tell you something". I too was not in debt and taught Siff what to say
if Russian guy will offer to meet you too intrusive. I know, I know, I’ve
always believed that it is not good to teach foreigners curses. But damn it,
it's very funny! During the trip, we had time to talk with Siff on a variety of
topics. She was very interesting person to talk to. When we stopped at a Duty
free shop at the Danish-German border, I told a little more about my journey to
Tue and I added that I feel very happy. "You really seem so."
- smiling, said Tue. He also
said to send sms to Julia, asking for her exact address in Hamburg. The guys brought me into town and
passed me into the hands of Julia. We hugged and said goodbye. I already knew
that I'll save the hope to meet again these guys in my life.
We came home to Julia and talked for about
an hour about travels. We chatted excitedly like old friends who after a long
absence can not stop talking. She was the first person to whom I told about my
blot on the landscape. Then she showed me her photo album with pictures of her
travels. Photos were so good that I wanted to visit every country from this
album. But Julia had to leave. "So, you're going to sleep in the apartment
alone. Here are the bathroom, kitchen, towels. I spend the night in the
apartment of my father. Relax, I'll see you in the morning!". On the table
were maps of Hamburg,
vegan cakes made by Julia, the password from wifi. I felt myself like in a
five-star hotel. Few of my friends could not believe that people will do so
much for a stranger, leave him apartment, provide for all his needs. Who would
doubt that the next day would be less than spectacular. We had a long walk
around the city, eating in cafes vegan burgers and ice cream. I decided to eat
as much as possible because in Russia
won`t be able to do that.
In the evening, Julia had to go to the doctor
and then to visit her best friend, with whom they have a tradition to watch
together "Game of Thrones." I sat for a while in Starbucks, then went
home. Around 10:00 pm, I've heard a strange sound from the balcony (apartment
is on the 1st floor). Coming closer, I saw Julia and the young man. Next my
actions were similar to the actions of player of the game "Fort Bayard".
Julia showed through the glass where lies the key and how to open the door to
the balcony. Guests came for a reason. They brought me a laptop. Unfortunately,
I do not remember the name of a friend of Julia, so I will call him Drugo (this
is the nickname of the main character in the film "The Big Lebowski"
in the Italian translation of the movie), while Julia did not come back from
vacation and I'll edit these lines of my blog. Drugo installed on the laptop
keyboard Russian layout and gave me a German SIM card. The sad statistics
confirmed: every vegan has a best friend, a meat-eater, funny, interesting and
beautiful in every way except the one (what guess by yourself ;-) ). I spent an
hour looking for vegans in Berlin
sending requests in the hope that tomorrow night someone will respond. I sent a
request to a group of emergency hosting in Berlin. The future will show that my efforts
will be in vain and fate already planned for me more interesting acquaintances.
In the morning on the way to a place that leads to the track E26 (Julia found a
great spot in hitchwiki), we had a little walk around the city.
As we finally
got to the right place we saw a pillar, used up by hitchhikers. Julia hid
behind it so that drivers do not think that it is necessary to carry two.
Fifteen minutes later a car stopped. The driver said he could help only half way. Again I had to say goodbye to a person when it is not desirable at all. I'm more than confident that I will have a chance to show Julia St. Petersburg and local vegan cuisine. With the drivers for me it did not cease to have luck. We chatted for a perfect. Including about video shown on one american show where with the music from "The Benny Hill Show" Russian drivers sort things out on the road in a peculiar manner (crowbar, pistols, bits). From the radio sounded great song (Black Heaven - Veitstanz). I asked the name of the band and wrote it into my notebook. As it is great when from each person on your way you get something useful: food, interesting talks, good music. In this case we are talking about the last two things. After our paths diverged I didn't wait the next car too long. Again it was a truck driver. This one didn't speak English at all. When we arrived at the parking he found another trucker going to Berlin because he did not go there. I moved over to the third German driver. I have not seen nothing like that cab! Perfectly clean, the mattress from the firm "King of Mattresses" with frilly curtains, some pleasant aroma of perfume. And this despite the fact that the driver himself can easily win in the contest for the 7th member of Rammstein if they were looking for another one. Piercing and tattoos pleasing to the eye. Carrier dropped me off at the bus stop in the south of Berlin. It was located on a busy entrance to the city. Cars raced at breakneck speed. "Oh, there is hardly anyone who will stop. Hitch-hiking is for the roads not for the city." - I was nervous because I urgently needed to be at the center of the city in any cafe with wifi and make sure I will not spend this night under the bridge. At that time my mother decided to take part in my life. She sent me sms which was asking where I am. Because all day I did not write and did not appear on-line. I moved to the stop to answer her. At this time the car stopped, came a young guy and began to look for something in the trunk. I'm not very fond of pestering people with stupid requests. And hitch-hiking is voluntary stuff. Seeing a fist with the thumb protruding people make choices. But last thing I just had not. I walked over and asked if he spoke English. "Yes, a bit. " - "Can you fetch me to the center?" - "Ok, sit down." I sat down and we went.
Marvin.
I told him briefly about my journey: how I
spent the night at home of passings in Copenhagen,
how I met with couchsurfers, as I was fed by drivers and the most important: I
do not know where to spend the night. I badly needed a cafe with wifi. Marvin
was astounded of that and kept saying I'm crazy. Although he had friends with
whom you can wake up in another country (for example in Netherlands), I
remained enrolled in the ranks of the insane. He offered to go to Starbucks. We
came and Marvin asked if he could go to take coffee with me because he wanted
to practice English. Why would I refuse it? Of course at this time Starbucks
was closed. "We can go back to my office. It is five minutes from the place
where I took you." - "I'm so sorry you have to go back there!" -
"It's okay. I love my job. I only enrage people that have to communicate.
You know, to drive through the city at a decent speed - it's great! Be sure to
try it if you'll get the chance. By the way, I learned a little more about the
driver. Marvin was 20, he did not finish the university, works as trader's
consultant. When he was a child he loved to analyze and consider. His sister
was studying in the U.S.
and speaks English as native speaker, and even his colleagues speak English
better than he. Marvin had good pronunciation, but his vocabulary wasn`t very
large. However I understood him perfectly. We came to the office. While I
checked the mail, Marvin brought the coffee. He was very surprised to see my
tattoo on the arm. "You have a tattoo. What does it mean?" -
"I'm vegan ... " - "Wow, I know who they are, I have a few
friends-vegans on facebook." Came a couple of invitations. But I did not
like the references from these dudes. I saw a message from Julia. She sent
addresses of two nice hostels. Marvin called there and said that they had a
good laugh over him: what free places at this time? I apologized that I
suddenly changed his plans for the evening. "It's ok. I would like to
become a part of your adventure by myself. " - It was the best word for my
entire vacation. I would like to hear them again! Then it was even more fun.
"I'm sorry, I can not offer you my apartment, as there now are workers.
And now I'm like couchsurfer by myself. I spend the nights in houses of friends
or parents. Today I'll go to one another. But if you want, you can sleep here
in office. Do not worry, sofa is tested. I often work 20 hours a day and more
than once I was sleeping here. I have a pillow and a blanket." . "Hmm,
this is quite suitable for the degree of inadequacy for me and fits into the
style of my crazy adventure." - I thought and agreed. "Thank you for
doing so much for me." - "You're welcome. Only you should know that
this is not typical for a German." - "I know what is this, German
mentality." - "But now, when you come back to Russia, you can
tell that you met one funny German. How many hours a day do you usually
sleep?" - Marvin said. "Usually 7." - "And I'm 1-3
hours." - "Why so little?" - "I sleep so long ago. I have
not been lucky with my childhood. Whenever my family and I moved, my room was
always next to the bathroom. My father always made a lot of noise and made me
awake. Do you already want to sleep? Now I need to take the keys from my
apartment to a friend, because I'm leaving tomorrow for 2 days for work in Dusseldorf, and then I
had a business meeting." - "Don't worry. I do not want to sleep yet.
I can ride with you in the city." We had a drive on the night Berlin and back in the
office. We played in table football and then Marvin asked me if I smoked. I do
not smoke of course. But we still went to the roof, where all sorts of things
smoking businessmen can discuss. About an hour we sat and chatted about life,
family, hobbies and crazy antics with friends. "You know Lara Croft?
" - "Of course!" - "So, you are Russian Lara Croft."
Yes, it was quite a compliment = ).
Marvin had
to go. We exchanged phone numbers and he said to call if anything happens. But
what could happen in an empty office? I didn't die on the road, here nothing
threatened me :-) . There was only a small chance that tomorrow one of his
colleagues could came to the work and see the sleeping girl. Marvin said it was
not a problem. At first I wanted to write a note (about who I am), but then
asked Marvin to do it. Then he went to a meeting and I fell asleep on the
couch. On the table piece of paper was lying : "Ich bin eine freundin von
Marvin :-)".
I got up
half an hour earlier than planned. Washed, wandered around the office, slowly
poured by a morning light. Marvin came on time, which is not surprising.
Punctuality is in his blood. Said several times during the night he checking
the phone. He was afraid that with me something could happen. Marvin brought me
to the center, we wanted to drink coffee, but at 7:30 am no cafe was open. We
hugged goodbye and I broke up again with the person when it is not wanted.
Marvin went to the airport and I stomped towards the Brandenburg Gate.
Berlin. Berlin est all und voll vegans!
Unfortunately,
this day was pretty boring. I could not find any couchsurfers nor vegans to
simply hang out. And good to see the city in one day is impossible. I only had
time to go to the Museum
of German History and
walk past the main attractions.
In the
evening I was the second time that day looked at the Starbucks. I ordered the
waiter cappuccino with soy milk. He asked my name. I called it. "Yana, where are you from?" - "From Russia."
- "Pozhaluista!" - He gave me coffee = ) . It's f*cking awesome when
people know a few words from your native language! Sister found me a cheap
hostel and sent its address.
When I
arrived I asked for the cheapest room. Administrator said it was for 8 people.
"I do not care." - I thought. Wash
did not work, as there was no hot water. "Well, at least I can sleep in a
comfortable bed!" - I flopped on the bed and noticed something strange. On
all the beds except mine lay only men's clothing and shoes. I went down to
reception and they told me that all cheap rooms are common. While the room was
empty I decided to go to sleep quickly to wake up early and get out of here.
Immediately came to mind an episode from the movie "The Main Event",
where the heroine of Barbra Streisand was forced to share a room with a bunch
of boxers in training camp. But all was calm as always. Someone came along,
someone took away their things and went away. Everyone tried to be quiet ,
except for one guy who farted in the morning in his sleep. I, who was in the
other end of the room was lucky, unlike his neighbour above. Is it that I was
afraid to wake everyone by my laugh. In the morning I bought a Ecolines ticket
to Warsaw and
then met with girl-vegan-couchsurfer. We sat in a little vegetarian cafe, ate
too much great vegan pizza, I told her about my adventures and went to bus.
Warsaw.
I've arrived around 10 pm. I took 200 zlotys from my bank card. ATM gave
me 1 banknote of 100 zlotys and 2 banknotes of 50. Bus Terminal refused to sell
me a ticket. Apparently these banknotes were too big for him. Close to me there
was a woman and she tried to help insert these notes into the ATM, but it also
did not work. Then she just took out her money and bought me a ticket, saying
that it is a gift. Again I was shocked. Just 20 minutes in Poland and
someone already does something good to me. I took out one of my fruit chocolate
snacks and gave it to her =). When I came to Agnieszka her husband was asleep.
I told her about my journey and we also went to sleep. In the morning I met
with Marcin. Aga cooked breakfast. At the table we were chatting in English as
Marcin didn't speak Russian. The guys went to work and I went to meet with Warsaw. I fell in love
with this city: beautiful historic center, a lot of cheap vegan food. What else
does one need to be happy? :-) . Marcin got off from work first. We met in the
park and went for a walk. Our goal was Veganburger. I have interfered Marcin to
eat as always talking about my crazy antics. Then he went to meet with his
friends and I met with Aga and her friend. Night Warsaw was no less beautiful. The next day I
went to a free and quite interesting tour, which is conducted by guides with an
orange umbrella. Guide said you can join these tours in many European cities.
Then I looked again at my favorite Vegdeli and Veganburger.
PS: Now I'm working in same company (Free tours). So I can tell this
trip totally has changed my life! ahahah =)
breaded mushrooms, cylindrical mashed potatoes with cucumbers and tomatoes
Great
social advertising.
The monument to Janusz Korczak, a Polish
doctor, teacher, writer and public figure who refused to leave his students in
the ghetto.
Aga said that I can stay at their house as much as I want, but I should
move to the other cities. She found me a place for hitching and the next morning I went there by
bus. To be honest I did not really like hitchhiking in Poland. In
total I stood more than 2 hours in the rain. I continued to believe that I'll
meet good and positive people. And I met them but almost no one went to Vilnius. The first driver
who helped me to drive a few miles away was a taxi driver. He didn't even ask for
money of course. The second was a young guy. The third was a young trucker. He
spoke little bit English. Pictures of his wife were everywhere inside. Very
cute couple. I told him that I was going to Vilnius. The driver several times sent messages
over the radio to colleagues and finally found a man who was riding in a less
desired direction. From his message I knew only the words "devchina"
and "Vilnius".
I felt like in the movie with the police chases. Just the speed of the truck
was very small =). While we drove I saw a prostitute on the road for the first
time. What can I say, fat and old. Trucker noticed her too. We looked at each
other and laughed together. I do not know over what. Before the holiday when I
was reading an article about hitchhiking it was written there about the
features and dangers of female hitchhiking. One of them is the fact that
prostitutes on the road may take you for a competitor and try to eliminate. I
do not think that is something I would be in danger in this case: sneakers,
shabby jeans, backpack and shoulder bag is unlikely to create the desired
image. Soon from radio the second trucker responded. After saying goodbye I
moved over to him. Again I rode very little. Then I caught the driver who tried
to give me ice cream in a box. It was a shame but I had to lie that I'm
allergic to lactose. The story of why I do not eat ice cream would last very
long. But I again felt human kindness. He dropped me off in some rural areas.
At first I felt sorry that he had not dropped me off at kilometer before
because there was a very beautiful church. I even considered to go back and
photograph it. But then the guy stopped. Few of the young Poles speak Russian
so I asked if he spoke English. He was a little confused and looked at me:
"English, Russian ..." - "Russian? Why did not you say it
before?" He was Latvian. He said he
was lucky that I speak Russian and his English is not very good. We talked
about Latvia.
It turns out there is more the government puts on the people than our own. In
times of crisis when the country had waste unemployment and a lot of problems
goverment had thrown away billions at the bridge which soon sank half a meter
in some places. We drove up to Kaunas.
There I met a trucker Pole about 60 years of age. He spoke Polish I replied
Russian and we almost understood each other. With him we came to Vilnius. As we were
closer to the city he began to ask stupid questions: who is waiting for me in
the city, where I will spend the night if I wanted to stay. "No way! I
know this trick!" - I thought and insisted that he stop at the next
corner. He stopped without any problems. Again I came to the nearest cafe with
wifi. This time my sister found me a wonderful hostel.
Jamaica.
If you visit Vilnius
be sure to stop at this hostel. As experienced traveler I asked the women's
room. It cost only a couple of euros more. Only 4 beds were in the room. When I
came in the room there was only one girl. We said hello and I turned again to
my tablet. After a few minutes I'm bored of this thing and I decided to talk
with her. The girl's name was Seungmin. She was from South Korea. We chatted a bit when
another girl came. I asked where she was from. Magda was from Warsaw
and I said that I only slept there yesterday and I am from Russia. Magda
immediately began to speak Russian. We chatted for a while and I offered to
walk around the city but only Seungmin agreed. We walked through the night Vilnius and then went to
the small pub close to the hostel. I bought cider and told Seungmin about all
my adventures. It turned out she studies Russian, Belarusian languages and
tomorrow is going to Minsk
by train. She said that if I travel to Asia be sure to come to South Korea. In
the morning we said goodbye. Seungmin went to buy a train ticket and I bought a
bus ticket to Riga
(yes, I became little bit lazy :)). But it turned out that both of us had some
time to take a walk around the city and we accidentally met at the Tower of Gediminas.
When I came to the bus stop of Luxexpress it started to rain. While
standing I met Argentine seems salsa dancer, 50 years old. He was traveling to Riga for a few days, then going to Tallinn
and St. Petersburg.
I do not know why but in Denmark,
Germany, Poland, Lithuania
and Latvia
I constantly met Italians. It seems to be their favorite countries for tourist
purposes. Here and there they surrounded me. I was a little ashamed to
eavesdrop on their conversations but it was not on purpose. And about anything
important they did not speak. Sadness has rolled on me because I knew that I
come closer to the end of my trip.
Riga.
At the bus station I met Kurmsi. Very nice and quiet girl vegan. We
bought some food, came home and cooked dinner. Then we went to the city center
and Kurmsi gave me a short tour of the night Riga. As always we talked about travel and
vegan life. In the morning she had to go to a gathering of the Latvian-
Estonian vegans and animal rights fighters somewhere near Tartu. Initially I planned to visit this
city. But since I could not find a bed there I immediately decided to go to Tallinn by the highway
E67. But the Fate decided differently: "The first word of the second more
expensive." So in Tartu
I finally came upon. After photographing of day Riga and having a dinner in Indian cafe I
went back to my favorite pastime.
On the bus I reached the desired exit from the city. A young guy stopped.
According to English he talked a little bit better than Russian. We
misunderstood each other a little. It turned out he was traveling to the north
of Latvia,
but not quite in the right direction to me. He was returning home to Valmiera.
So I've just been on the road leading to Tartu.
Well, I thought, this is definitely planned destiny. I heard the song
"Crazy" of Aerosmith by the radio. I got even more convinced that I'm
still on the right way. The driver was incredibly sweet programmer and drove through
his city to cross the border and carry me to the Estonian town of Valga. We said goodbye
and now I am very sorry that I forgot to leave him with my contacts. Then a
couple of drivers picked me to Tartu.
I quickly found a cafe with mana wifi and found a place to go.
I probably walked 5
kilometers and became so tired. I've started to
hitch-hike in down-town area. Woman passed by and said it was not the right
place for HH. I replied that I was just tired and I still have a long way to
go. She showed me which way the path is shorter. The fate kept sending me the
right people. After 10 minutes I was on the right road. It took probably a few seconds
as I raised my hand and red car stopped. Behind the wheel sat a smiling woman.
I asked if she speaks Russian. "A little bit." - She replied. "I
need to go to Tallinn."
- "Yes, Tallinn!"
The rear seats have been filled up with garlic, in the legs I had a bag of
apples. She was constantly saying something (probably in Estonian) and laughed.
I could not understand anything, smiled back and repeated that I do not
understand it. We stopped at the store she bought herself a snack food,
gathered out of the luggage of garlic and presented me with the words
"it's a gift." Organic chocolate immediately migrated out of my
backpack in her hands. My fellow traveler dropped me off in the south of the
city and said that there is a bus stop. At first I could not see it.
Tallinn.
I looked up and saw the plane taking off. After running through the airport
I finally found the stop. Even 4. Some of these buses were going to the
suburbs. I went to one with a map of Tallinn
and started to look around to understand where I should go and how. A girl was
sitting at the bus stop and asked where I wanted to go. To stop Setsi, I said.
"Wow, I live close enough to this one. I'll tell you where to go." We
boarded the bus and started talking. "Where are you going?" - "I
had almost completed my journey hitchhiking around Europe.
I'm going to visit one friend of mine." - "Actually I also hitchhiked
3 months ago. Where did you spend the nights while traveling? " -
"I'm couchsurfer." - "It's crazy! I'm too! How long do you plan
to stay in Tallinn?
" - "Only one day. Tomorrow I have to go to Helsinki as the relatives come to my friend
and I can spend only one night here." - "Don't go, you can spend the
night at my place. Tomorrow will be yoga festival in Rocca al Mare." -
"Are you a vegetarian by any case?" - "Yeah ... " -
"I'm vegan!" - "And I'm too!" All kinds of things happened
to me during my trip But to meet vegan - hitchhiker - couchsurfer (and, as it
turned out later also a person who knows about Socionics) was superepic! We
exchanged contacts and agreed to phone tomorrow. I came to Ira`s home, quickly
told her about my adventure, and we went to bed. I woke up about 11 am. For the
first time in my trip I was sleeping so much. Ira did not wake me up and while
I was asleep made me tasty vegan breakfast. Then we packed up and went to the
flea fair. There were a lot of old things, antiques, jewelry and handmade. And
at two o'clock the Finnish-Estonian vegan meeting gathered there. And of course
we looked at it for a while. We sat next to a very nice family from Finland. Ira
chatted with Kreeta. A very cute baby was on her hands. And I've talked with her
husband Oscari. Their eldest daughter about 8 years ran to us later. Oskari
said that he was only once in St.
Petersburg for work. And he had no time to check
sights of the city. His colleague managed to exchange money from hands of one
guy and was caught by police in the calculation in the store. Of course the
police had no evidence that he was a counterfeit. So nobody went to jail. Then
we met with Jessica, the organizer of this meeting from the Finnish side. We as
always shared contacts. I declared that if anyone need a vegan-guide in St. Petersburg you all
are welcome. We drove home to pick up my things. We met with Irina with her
friend and her small daughter to go on a yoga festival. Christina later looked
at him with her boyfriend Nikolas. But they did not stay. She said to write as
we would be leaving with it. The festival was held just fine: yoga, animations,
fire show, veg dishes. I said goodbye to the girls and went to Christina. We
chatted about travel and adventure has not yet fallen asleep. We had a lot in
common. It seemed much much more! Chris also did not tell to her mother that
she was going to hitchhike. She told the family all after return. Mom was shocked
a bit and her father supported daughter. The next day we went to buy me a
ticket for Viking ferry. Christina called to her best friend Sasha and told about
me. (Damn relentless statistics: another best friend turned omnivore). He said
that he has a coupon for a discount on the purchase of a ticket for the ferry.
Christina proposed to have a picnic in the park and I bought a pomegranate as more
than a month could not find it. Not only in the shops in Peter but also around
the Baltic Sea. And it's my favorite food! She
again phoned to Sasha and said: "Hi! Please, take discount coupon, knife
and soy sauce. I'll explain you everything later." We bought pita, salad,
vegetables in a store and stirred up a great snack. That did not stop after a
picnic and a walk through the Old
Town to look at Von Krahl
and eat great pasta with mushrooms.
It's time to go to the terminal Viking. I came for the registration and
suspected something was wrong. It turned out I bought a ticket to the wrong
ferry, not which I wanted. Maybe a discount coupon was on it or maybe the
cashier did not understand me. In general, we drove 2 hours to Helsinki, and in the cabin you can stay until
6 of the morning and get some sleep. Even the duty free was missing. In the morning
8 degrees Celsius. Walking with a backpack on my back I did not even feel it. I
came to the central station and began to search for the bus, whose route would
pass as close to the E18. I tried to talk to the two bus drivers. But they
poorly understood English. When I went to the third bus I've immediately got
it: it was my driver. Dude had a fashionable beard and well spoken English. I
explained who I am and that I just need to get closer to the road. He said not to
go far away and that he will warn me where and when to leave. "Psss! You
need to get off at the next stop." - "Ok.Thank you!" -
"Where are you from and where are you going?" - "I'm finishing
my hitchhiking trip around Europe. I'm
returning to home in St. Petersburg."
- "Ochen' priyatno!" - "Me too!" - As I said, it's really
awesome when your interlocutor suddenly demonstrates knowledge of your
language. I stood for about half an hour in a great location (after the traffic
lights, respectively, the velocity where was not more than 60 vehicles, from
the roadside, with no signs prohibiting stopping). One driver stopped and
helped a few kilometers. The second was a businessman. He was riding in Lappeenranta but changed
his route slightly for me to throw me in Hamina. Radio played Eppu Normaali, later
turned out to be in my playlist. The third was the Finnish-German guy (Damn!
Why am I so sclerotic at the names!). With him we had no problems crossing the
border.
Bouncing around the potholes I felt that I did come back home. The
driver offered to drop me off at Vyborg where I
can buy a ticket on the train to St.
Petersburg. But I refused. I wanted to see that in Russia too there
are cool drivers. Basically, I am convinced of this. The cars stopped much more
frequently than in Europe but almost all went to Vyborg. Stopped quite nice and calm driver of
van. He said about his plan: he goes to Peter but he needs to stop in one
village and unload goods. It only takes half an hour. "One driver - it's
too easy." - I thought and decided to continue to hitchhike. With the
truckers I did not want to go. I saw a couple of cars behind the truck, put my
hand down to let the trucker drive by and picked it up when he caught up with
me. But he pulled up sharply. "Oh. Well. I'll pass it." - I decided.
To this acquaintance I was not happy. It was the way I thought of this
profession before I left. Dirty cabin, torn clothes, wacky questions. "But
it's not so bad when you have a language barrier with driver." - I thought
and decided to get out on the pretext of making some major purchases at the gas
station. Driver stopped without any problems. I think he realized that I didn't
like him at all. But I did not want to keep answering stupid questions: if I
have a boyfriend, why he let me go alone, is it not scary to me and etc. Then
one soldier helped in several kilometers. Landed on the newly built section of
the road. Cars no longer stopped. I said: "The car, stop! Please, please,
please!" The universe heard my call: a car on which I watched stopped.
When the glass is dropped I saw two Caucasians. Do not think that I'm a racist.
Perhaps this zombie effect from major news channels of the country but badly
shaved beards, like those of terrorists, scared me. But I did not lose my
composure and asked them first: "Where are you going?" - "In St.
Petersburg." - "Oh, and I need not there. Sorry." And they left.
Seems like they did not care at all if I'll sit down or not. Then construction
businessman stopped. The conversation was quite simple and unobtrusive. Over
time as we drove I wrote to my friends what I'll wait for everyone in OUR place
in three hours. I was eager to speak out and tell them about my incredible
adventures. Businessman took me to Pargolovo. And there my hitchhiking came to
an end.
PS: The storm is a'coming 'cross the hills tonight,
like a vain full of rain to the
hearts that should fight.
By public transport I got home
where fried potatoes with mushrooms and my mom were waiting for me. The first
souvenir was presented. I quickly had a bite and began to gather. As I stood in
the doorway my mother said, " It was a difficult journey?" .
"Yes, but I have overcome all the difficulties on the way." - I
replied. My mother had no idea what lies behind these words. I hope one day
I'll have the courage to tell her to make her believe that the world is full of
good, wonderful, helpful people.
Not everyone who promised came to OUR place. I met with Ira and Oksana.
In the middle of my story sister came. I am very grateful to them that they were
able to overcome some difficulties for me. Ira (that's got to my best friend -
carnivore) has canceled a meeting with several people and Oksana came from the
other end of the city and even with poor health and hearted head. We had such a
nice time (and it could not be not this way). When I returned home, got a
message from Oksana that she had ceased to have a headache and generally started
to feel better. She accused my story which she described as incredibly
inspiring.
What can be said as an
epilogue? Now the trip seems as perfect sleep to me and it is hard to believe
that this really happened with me. But I believe that the next time Fate will
make sure that I'll meet wonderful, interesting, positive and kind people along
the way. And I wish you the same!
